It wasn’t such a good day for surf; however you can still get something useful from it, and have a bit of fun.
So here it was time to ‘paddle a few squares’:
Paddle out through – working break timings and looking for gaps,
Then paddle across just on the edge of ‘the break’ – keeping the boat running and working timing of the about-to-break waves,
Run/surf back in – no waiting for waves – grab what you can – practicing the wallow as well as the surf,
Then paddle across inside the break – dealing with whatever comes your way, aiming to stay parallel to the beach.
You get exposed to 4 different ‘environments’, and each works the boat from a different aspect – front, back left, right.
Reverse the direction of the square now and then so you get to develop both your good side and bad side.
Useful, fun and a bit of a challenge.